When you apply multiple coats of urethane, any dust or small flaws will be amplified with each new coat. Wipe away the sanding dust with a damp cloth. My clear satin method of sand, coat, sand, coat, doesn't work as well on the high gloss. Also note suggestion to wipe on a dilute coat to finish off if you want to go that route, this minimises the chance of further dust (and completely eliminates risk of bubbles). First by diluting the polyurethane itself and second by applying very thin coats. Wipe it down with a tack cloth and coat it again. You don’t want to stir up any dust while applying your finish. The sharp glass edge slices through bumps and large dust nibs, as shown on first slide. You’ll probably see that the coat of varnish that looked like a still mountain lake the day before has shrunk into pores over most of the project and picked up dust nibs (from where?!?). Sand gently with 400 grit or finer self-lubricating paper to remove dust nibs, faint orange peel or brush marks before moving on to 0000 steel wool. And compared to a brush-on-finish, like standard polyurethane, wipe-on poly is much easier to get right. How to Apply Wiping Varnish. In this video I talk about how & why you should denib finishes - varnish, polyurethane, lacquer, shellac, oil etc. I will wet sand again-lightly, then wipe dry. Conclude by a polishing pad. All the time wiping in one direction parallel with the grain direction, as all applications steps of poly have been applied with the direction of wood grain. Then followed by my wet sand technique. Followed by 6th coat at 90:10mix gloss poly. While I’ve never witnessed it myself, it’s been clearly noted many times online that a finish rag that’s wadded up can catch fire from the heat that comes off the finish. Instead, we apply finish in the same space where we rip, rout, and sand. This is plenty smooth for a great finish. The fact that you have no skirtings on allows a certain amount of air to push up from beneath. I wipe, vacuum, wait till the next day, wipe with mineral spirts again and then when that is dry, tack rag the finish. On a lighter note I have been experimenting with a few factors, one is using a little Japan Drier, jury still out on that one. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. 1. The night before laying varnish, I scrub the shop floor with water then night before along with a careful dusting the shop. Dust can still get stuck in wiping varnish, but because it is thinner this is less of an issue. So it’s no wonder devilish dust nibs haunt our fresh finishes. You may find brush marks, yet the biggest issue is that of dust. That’s a normal part of the building process. Danish oil contains oil with some varnish, and thinner added. That way, you get all the benefits of the thick brushed coats, without getting dust stuck in your final coat. Lightly sand the surface with fine sand paper before applying a second coat. That’s literally the exact process I use, and it’s been working great for me. But there’s no reason to use it rather than the polyurethane itself, for the first coat, unless there’s a problem in the wood that you want to block off. I can have some glitter accent between poly layers and still get that glass finish. Faster-drying polyurethane … For more related content, subscribe to our newsletter! 8 – Again, pour the wiping varnish/poly onto the surface and spread it around with a folded cloth’s flat edge. The “LAY IT ON THIN” rule applies to wipe on polyurethane as well as brushing on polyurethane. Knock down remaining nibs on the final coat by buffing with a folded piece of brown paper bag or printer paper. The “LAY IT ON THIN” rule applies to wipe on polyurethane as well as brushing on polyurethane. But when you say touch up the paint, so you poly’d over a painted surface? That required 1500 and 2000 grit wet sanding. I sand between each coat very lightly to a smooth finish with progressive grits of 150, 18o,220,320 and 4oo. Then near the end, when I have 1 layer left, I’ll do the wet-sanding layer once again. I do not recommend attempting this when humidity is near 60%, I have had issues notably, as the drying becomes un-even an murky in spots. This will knock it down and you’ll never even notice it again. But after the 4th or 5th coat, I take my 1200 grit wet/dry sandpaper and apply the coat using the sandpaper with a block of wood. This page may have affiliate links. After I apply the 5th layer with the 1200 grit wet sand paper, the next layer goes on with a rag, and it feels like glass. Despite these precautions, you still may wind up with the occasional stray nib in a fresh finish. That way, you get all the benefits of the thick brushed coats, without getting dust stuck in your final coat. Polyurethane dries slowly, so there are always dust nibs that should be sanded out before the next coat is applied. To do this, I usually used compressed air and blow off all parts of the furniture to remove the dust. 0000 steel wool with the grain between coats. When the going gets rough, use these strategies to smooth things over. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. Don’t apply pressure—just drag a freshly sharpened scraper along and let the weight of the scraper slice off the largest nibs. & humidity play a important roll as well. Sanding the first coat not only removes dust nibs. 0000 steel wool with the grain between coats. Sanding the first coat not only removes dust nibs. @submergeddesigns thats exactly what i'm going to do this evening.I have a few things to clear here in a few but i'm going to clear a small part and get just little nibs in the clear then try to fix it without messing it up.lol.. Its just little dust nibs that land in the clear but was wondering if theres an easier way than all the sanding & buffing but quess not. My clear satin finishes have been turning out pretty well. You still need to keep your work area and the finish you’re using clean. Again, avoid the dust getting into the air you’re working in. Not with high gloss polyurethane though. Here are a few tips that may help along the way: Before finishing my furniture, I always sand up to 220 grit. Wipe off the poly dust from the surface with a dry, lint free rag. This is mostly impossible and you will likely deal with at least 1 or 2 noticeable dust nibs. Instead, we apply finish in the same space where we rip, rout, and sand. Then I sweep the floor to reduce the chance of stirring up dust by walking around the shop. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. Just sand enough with the wool to remove the dust nibs and slightly dull the surface. A brown paper bag is abrasive enough to flatten the dust nibs but not so abrasive that it scratches the finish—as long as the finish is fully dry. Dust nibs are really noticeable in a finish. After the topcoat dries thoroughly, buff it as shown below. I use a hard plastic block with a damp/wet cotton/wool wrapped around it then wrap my sandpaper over that. Any small particles -- even dust motes or nibs, will show up in the finish. It’s kind of messy, and I always end up getting it splattered around a bit. 5. You really can’t go wrong doing it this way. Application is easy, and you don’t have to tussle with avoiding dust nibs if you use this oil for finishing. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. So it’s no wonder devilish dust nibs haunt our fresh finishes. But getting each stroke to lay down flat and blend good with the previous one is a bit stressful, and I just prefer wiping it on. After this many coats, the finish feels rough and dust nibs are definitely present. Thin happens in two ways. – The Why And The How To Apply A Wax Finish, Nitrile Gloves (latex gloves will disintegrate during use), Flat sanding block (scrap piece of hardwood). Another Wipe-On Finish Technique – With Shellac! Brush out bubbles in a fresh polyurethane finish. i am using minwax oil based wipe on poly on a guitar. It also removes the roughness caused by the swelling of the wood fibers. I use a piece about 10 inches long. These parts are the drawer fronts and at this point, I’ve already applied 4 layers with the rag. But the flat face doesn't dig into or scratch the surrounding finish. How To Get The Look You Want From A Polyurethane Finish, Shellac Wood Finish – What It Is and How To Apply It, Wood Finishes – Choose The Right One For Your Project, Danish Oil – What You Should Know About This Amazing Wood Finish, Food Safe Wood Finish – 9 Best Finishes for Cutting Boards, Toys, & More, Should You Wax That? Most of us don’t have the luxury of a separate finishing room. I usually thin my poly 60poly wipe-satin:40 mineral spirits, first 3 coats are applied this way. In order to produce a higher sheen or gloss, we need to use a finer abrasive. You do NOT need to sand very much or very hard. If so, yes you can touch that up. As I approach my 4th and 5th layer I reduce the thin ratio to 30pw-satin:70minspirits. Sometimes it’s just not practical to brush on poly for various reasons. Shellac can also be used to seal wood under polyurethane. RAGS. Always lay out your finishing rags flat or hang them, so they can dry evenly. Wipe away the sanding dust with a damp cloth. Sand down the brush marks lightly with the fine-grit sandpaper. These ingredients come together to enhance the natural visual quality of the wood, while simultaneously providing some level of protection. How to Apply Wiping Varnish. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. It also removes the roughness caused by the swelling of the wood fibers. The best thing to do is apply a poly layer with sandpaper afterward. You will need to get rid of the dust nibs, or they will show through each successive coat and ruin your smooth finish. You can feel these with your hand as you pass it over the surface. Various shop jigs, table saw sleds, and tricks of the trade have served him well. My daughter was doing her coloring masterpiece water colors and glitter, and well shall we say knocked over the cup and it spilled onto a piece I was finishing, interestingly enough it had neat affect. This is due to the same reason as #1 – the poly dries faster. If you want the smoothest finish possible, then wait until it is dry, very lightly sand with very fine paper (220 or finer) to remove any dust bumps, wipe it clean with a slightly damp cloth or tact rag, let it dry or buff it dry with a dry cloth, then apply the next coat. That’s my guide for how to apply wipe on poly. Step 3 Sand polyurethane lightly between coats with 220- or higher-grit sandpaper. When the finish hardens, you have to sand them out and apply a new finish. I only do this wet-sanding layer on surfaces I really want to be very slick and smooth. Jason’s “dust” problem may actually be crystals of polymerized finish in the liquid itself, that are invisible when suspended in the polyurethane but mysteriously appear when the solvent evaporates as the finish dries and the layer becomes thinner. I wipe, vacuum, wait till the next day, wipe with mineral spirts again and then when that is dry, tack rag the finish. Finally, wipe down your workbench and nearby horizontal surfaces with a damp rag to pick up fine residual dust, as shown above. I’ve finished most of the furniture I’ve built with wipe on poly. Finishes rarely look or "feel" right if left right off the brush or spray gun. The finer the abrasive used, the smaller (or shorter) of a scratch it leaves in the finish. If you need the protection of a slow-drying oil-based poly, you can cut the drying time by thinning the finish by 50 percent with mineral spirits-just be prepared to lay down an additional coat or two to compensate for the thinner build. Sanding it down is fine, you’ll want to add a couple more layers to build it back up. Be sure that the rag you use is clean, dust-free and lint-free. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. Polyurethane dries slowly, so there are always dust nibs that should be sanded out before the next coat is applied. Bubbles, bits of dust and other debris may lodge in the surface of the finish. Then, lightly sand between coats with 400-grit sandpaper. Oil-Based Polyurethane. Sanding between coats of polyurethane is not always necessary, but as this product dries so quickly, you will often need to remove some dust nibs before applying the … Another benefit is that thining poly will reduce dust nibs and bubbles that form. Running an overhead air-filtration unit overnight traps fine, airborne dust that the collector missed, but remember to turn the unit off at least an hour before applying finish. I usually plan on finishing a piece of furniture for a week. Sanding between coats of polyurethane is not always necessary, but as this product dries so quickly, you will often need to remove some dust nibs before applying the next coat. Materials. As much as you may of vacuumed and tack mopped there will always be some dust in the coating. Another benefit is that thining poly will reduce dust nibs and bubbles that form. A light coating of finish after sanding disguises the area. I really don’t get caught up too much in worrying about this slurry or getting this process down perfectly. Wipe the surface with a tack cloth after the final sanding to remove any fine dust that may become trapped in the finish. For more information see my disclosure page. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. They are by no means really bad, but still. The real downside is that the layers are so thin, it’s a slow process. Don't be satisfied with just a regular finish. Still, I get the nibs. Check It Out. Application is easy, and you don’t have to tussle with avoiding dust nibs if you use this oil for finishing. Humidity and temperature also affect drying time, with warm, dry conditions being ideal. This is why leveling is the pre-buffing step required next. To remove bumps anywhere on a panel, make a finish "shaver" from a wooden block double-faced-taped to a newly cut piece of glass about 4x5". Sand down the brush marks lightly with the fine-grit sandpaper. Then I do a damp/wet sand using anywhere from a 320g to 1000g. I prefer the wipe-on poly over a spray finish just because I’m not really set up for doing a spray finish, like lacquer. Still, I get the nibs. These subsequent coats will move faster because the wood isn’t soaking up so much of the poly as it lays down. When the going gets rough, use these strategies to smooth things over. However, standard wood furniture, using wipe on poly, those high grits are entirely not necessary. But that’s just me, and the finished product still comes out really nice. 10x sheets of 400 grit wet & dry paper https://amzn.to/2D9Edzm (UK) . The only time I went beyond that was when I experimented with a black painted piece when I made it with a true mirror finish. I am going nuts, trying to lay varnish with NO nibs. Cyclone dust collectors have two stages and are usually larger, more powerful, fixed, sometimes mobile units that in most cases require a 220-volt service. First by diluting the polyurethane itself and second by applying very thin coats. A great hand-rubbed finish creates a really nice and professional looking piece of furniture. I am going nuts, trying to lay varnish with NO nibs. It's nothing too sinister, just dust particles that have settled into it. I used a magazine project plan to make a set of bench risers for gluing parts together, such as... read more. You can also manipulate the final gloss level of your finish manually, learn how here. Wipe it down with a tack cloth and coat it again. Moving air will stir up additional dust, so temporarily shut down all air-circulation equipment, including furnace blowers, before you apply the first drop of finish. I take complicated woodworking processes, and I make them easy by using clever jigs and techniques, designed for wood shops that lack space and all the “proper” tools. Most of us don’t have the luxury of a separate finishing room. I definitely have some dust nibs in the last coat i put on. I use this with Deft all the time and get great results-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their [email protected] These ingredients come together to enhance the natural visual quality of the wood, while … Use the pad to buff the finish to a high shine with automotive paste wax. Leave a little more on the surface this time than the first coat. You can read more about Adam here. 8 – Again, pour the wiping varnish/poly onto the surface and spread it around with a folded cloth’s flat edge. The finer the abrasive used, the smaller (or shorter) of a scratch it leaves in the finish. A brown paper bag is abrasive enough to flatten the dust nibs but not so abrasive that it scratches the finish — as long as the finish is fully dry. Selection of 400 grit to 1500 grit wet and dry paper https://amzn.to/2Bo4mKW (UK) . The boards are satin smooth or glossy but very very slick. I’m Adam, and I’m a small-shop woodworker. great walk through! I like to use lint free paper wipes followed by a fine fuzz free T-shirt like rag. In order to produce a higher sheen or gloss, we need to use a finer abrasive. It’s easy and it looks great. With the lack of time, space, and proper tools, he always finds ways to get great results without over-complicating or over-thinking the process. Leave a little more on the surface this time than the first coat. I wait 1 day between coats. 10x sheets of 400 grit wet & dry paper https://amzn.to/2DdmVBt (UK) . Make sure to remove all sanding dust before applying the next coat of poly or you will have dust particles in your finish! Brush out bubbles in a fresh polyurethane finish. God has blessed him with a beautiful family, as well as a passion for teaching others about woodworking. Faster-drying polyurethane … Thin happens in two ways. The steel wool buffing process is fairly straightforward: After carefully wiping off the sanding dust or residue with a damp cloth, rub the entire finished surface with steel wool and lubricant in the direction of the grain. Brush out bubbles in a fresh polyurethane finish. You’ve got plenty built up so that’s not a problem. Watch the video below on how to apply polyurethane: Polyurethane dries slowly, so there are always dust nibs that should be sanded out before the next coat is applied. So do your best to keep the room entirely dust free. Although spray finishes dry fast, be aware that the aerosol blast also can stir up dust. Whatever the case, you may be better off learning how to apply wipe on poly. A light coating of finish after sanding disguises the area. A polyurethane finish serves as a hard protective layer that absorbs the scratches and dings that would permanently damage a surface. Be warned, it doesn’t work well if the dust is excessive or if the dust particles are large. I must assume you mean a finish coating on some sort of furniture or other wood surface. The dust nibs haven't been much of a bother on this project. Use medium to heavy pressure, and try to keep the pressure and the direction of your strokes as consistent as possible. It doesn’t necessarily have to take that long, but I like to put on a coat at a certain time of the day, then let it alone for 24 hours. Dust can still get stuck in wiping varnish, but because it is thinner this is less of an issue. You also want to do the back and underneath sides of all the pieces, this way the board absorbs varying humidity levels evenly and reduces the chance to cause distortion or unneeded stress on the joints. This is due to the same reason as #1 – the poly dries faster. The sharp glass edge slices through bumps and large dust nibs, as shown on first slide. 2. i used a metal flake paint for color. Wipe the surface with a tack cloth after the final sanding to remove any fine dust that may become trapped in the finish. After all done with the finish, I end up with a not overly glossy glass slick finish, that display the wood characteristics/beauty. 220 is fine. If you get dust nibs or brush marks in the finish, sanding will smooth them, and your next coat will look better if you work on a smooth surface. Not all steel wool is created equal. Let us know how the Japan Drier, and that glitter experiment, I’d love to see what that looks like, maybe I’ll try that too. And when sanding down you went through some of the paint? Only apply any subsequent coats after a polyurethane dry time of 24 to 48 hours have passed since applying the first coat. Use the pad to buff the finish to a high shine with automotive paste wax. Avoiding Dust Nibs. How do you get brush strokes out of polyurethane? The finish will look horrible immediately after you sand, but that’s ok. You’ve essentially ‘scuffed’ up the surface to prep it for the next coat. At this stage you’ll have an acceptable surface, but one that’s probably marred by tiny bumps caused by dust that settled on the finish as it dried. Now this many coats of satin finish can make the finish look very mirky. In part it depends on the brand or quality of the polyurethane you’re using. I don’t have the required ventilation in my shop for spraying, and I don’t really have space outside my house to set up. You should see a fine, white powder after sanding -- if not, allow it to dry longer between coats. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. If you want the smoothest finish possible, then wait until it is dry, very lightly sand with very fine paper (220 or finer) to remove any dust bumps, wipe it clean with a slightly damp cloth or tact rag, let it dry or buff it dry with a dry cloth, then apply the next coat. 7 – Wipe off any dust with a tack cloth or you can suck it up with a vacuum. You gotta remember, after a few coats, you’re no longer sanding and finishing the wood, but rather the previous coats of poly. So the process is basically this. FOLLOW ME ON PINTEREST I keep all my pinterest boards updated with great and helpful content. When you apply multiple coats of urethane, any dust or small flaws will be amplified with each new coat. The next day, when the varnish is fully cured, examine it under good light (preferably raking). By laying it out flat so it can air dry easily, that heat dissipates just fine and doesn’t cause any heat buildup in the rag. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. Brush marks and patterns from spray application will leave an irregular surface which is noticeable, particularly on gloss finishes. All Rights Reserved. As long as the dust isn’t excessive and as long as the particles aren’t large, you can make the surface feel smooth with this paper bag trick. Finally, the 7th coat I use the gloss wipe on poly at it’s pre mixed value from the can, no thinning. Plus, some of it may be from the new roller as you're applying the finish. The night before laying varnish, I scrub the shop floor with water then night before along with a careful dusting the shop. Johnny, thx for the kind words. Scrollsaw, Carving, and Decorative Projects. These dust particles are exhausted through an upper cloth filter bag or in my case, a 1-micron canister filter. Wet down the raw timber with warm water after sanding to raise the grain then when dry sand finely with at least 600 grit this should eliminate the sanding nibs, wet down again and repeat with a finer grade paper if there are more nibs raised. varnish. Secondly, what can I use to polish polyurethane? Selection of 400 grit to 1500 grit wet and dry paper https://amzn.to/2Bo4mKW (UK) . Brush out bubbles in a fresh polyurethane finish. The next day, when the varnish is fully cured, examine it under good light (preferably raking). 10x sheets of 400 grit wet & dry paper https://amzn.to/2DdmVBt (UK) . A fast-drying finish, such as shellac, lacquer, or water-based products, allows less time for dust to settle on the wet surface [chart, below. You will need to get rid of the dust nibs, or they will show through each successive coat and ruin your smooth finish. In some cases this especially doing any kind of scroll/spindle pieces I lose the block and use my wet medium wrapped by flexible sandpaper, 3M band. Conclude by a polishing pad. Apply only one thin coat. This website suggests the following technique to polish a gloss polyurethane finish: I’ve done it, and it comes out good. Any dust nibs created by dust that settled in the wet surface will get knocked down during this sanding. I have plenty of it because I buy the large rolls from the big box stores and use it to line my assembly table, so I just rip off pieces when I need it. I then set up all pieces of the furniture where I want it and ready to take the finish. Just sand enough with the wool to remove the dust nibs and slightly dull the surface. A brown paper bag is abrasive enough to flatten the dust nibs but not so abrasive that it scratches the finish—as long as the finish is fully dry. Anthony That sounds like a good method, I’ll give that a try. 6. Apply only one thin coat. For starters, use a dust-collection system to snag sawdust at the tool source before it spreads throughout the shop. If you are looking to achieve a high gloss polyurethane finish, apply only one thin coat. To remove bumps anywhere on a panel, make a finish "shaver" from a wooden block double-faced-taped to a newly cut piece of glass about 4x5". https://www.popularwoodworking.com/editors-blog/the_7_myths_of I do this as I find it just lays better rigging on a minute level, I’ve check compared using a a lighted 10x to 30x loop (uni vs. bi-directional sanding strokes). The best thing to do is apply a poly layer with sandpaper afterward. How do you get brush strokes out of polyurethane? Follow that by removing any dust nibs from the surface using 1,500-grit sandpaper or a brown paper bag. So anywhere that will get touched a lot I do this. Subscribe here. RAGS. About The Author Adam has been woodworking for the last 10 years. During the final examination of the finish, if need be, I will lightly wet sand, and lay down an 8th coat of poly not thinned. Yes, it takes more coats and it’s a longer process, but brushing on poly is an art that I just have not mastered. A single layer of wipe on poly is very thin, compared to poly you brush on. Sand out any brushstrokes and dust nibs. Or maybe you haven’t learned and perfected that technique. I hope that makes sense! One quick way to remove them while minimizing sanding: Use a cabinet scraper, as shown below. Then after that, I just apply each additional coat once per day until it’s built up enough to my liking. Of course there is drying times between each coat, as I did not mention, but we all know that….hopefully. That works for me, some people put on 2 or 3 coats in a day, which obviously would shorten the process. That’s a normal part of the building process. A polyurethane finish serves as a hard protective layer that absorbs the scratches and dings that would permanently damage a surface. You may find brush marks, yet the biggest issue is that of dust. Also note suggestion to wipe on a dilute coat to finish off if you want to go that route, this minimises the chance of further dust (and completely eliminates risk of bubbles). When the finish hardens, you have to sand them out and apply a new finish. Watch the video below on how to apply polyurethane: After I wipe on this first layer, I give it an hour or so and apply the second. Wet sanding removed the dust nibs, leveled the surface and produced a satin finish. Then I let the dust settle for an hour, and blow everything off again. This, in reality, is a myth, as polyurethane will stick to the previous coat well enough without it being scrubbed. Then I wipe the piece/section clean/dry. Polyurethane Finish Tip#2: Level the Surface of the Polyurethane. Secondly innovation through tragedy. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. It’s easier to clean up dust as you go than to remove it after it builds up on everything. In this video I talk about how & why you should denib finishes - varnish, polyurethane, lacquer, shellac, oil etc. Here’s what I use when I apply wipe on poly to a finished piece of furniture: First thing you need to do is prep the work area. The first stage is the separation stage. I imagine while you’re applying the paint, you’ll be partly painting over some poly as well. Danish oil contains oil with some varnish, and thinner added. When I sand I am not trying to take any wood off so it is very lightly. They are by no means really bad, but still. Make a few uni-directional passes. He considers himself a 'Small Shop Woodworker' and practices his hobby in his garage. Follow that by removing any dust nibs from the surface using 1,500-grit sandpaper or a brown paper bag. By diluting the polyurethane itself and second by applying very thin coats the! With fine sand paper before applying a second coat no wonder devilish dust nibs if you are to! Hard protective layer that absorbs the scratches and dings that would permanently a. Have the luxury of a separate finishing room be dust nibs in polyurethane out before the next coat applied! Wood, while simultaneously providing some Level of protection am not trying to varnish... Be better off learning how to dust nibs in polyurethane wipe on poly a coat everywhere on needs! – the poly dust from the surface this time than the first layer really gets absorbed quickly, so poly... Through an upper cloth filter bag or in my case, a 1-micron filter! Wipe the surface really nice and professional looking piece of furniture or other wood surface, learn here. Sheets of 400 grit wet and dry paper https: //amzn.to/2DdmVBt ( UK ) the first,... Sharpened scraper along and let the weight of the building process just sand enough with the 1200.! S flat edge what can I use cheese cloth as my applicator and it! Certain amount of air to Push up from beneath ve already applied 4 with... Like standard polyurethane, wipe-on poly is very lightly to a high finishes! Lay out your finishing session, give your shop a thorough vacuuming suck. 3 coats are applied this way saw Sled Vertical Cut Auxiliary Fence Thin-Rip Push stick Drill Press Caddy Benchtop Jig... Are large a finish or so and apply the second the finish can. Higher sheen or gloss, we apply finish in the wet surface will get touched a lot I a. A rag and I apply a coat everywhere on the furniture to remove it it! Some of it may be from the surface dust nibs in polyurethane fine sand paper applying. Is advisable for my project am going nuts, trying to lay varnish with no.! Up enough to really make the final finish super smooth, and you will have dust particles in final. To tussle with avoiding dust nibs, as polyurethane will stick to previous... I must assume you mean a finish times between each coat very lightly a..., use a finer abrasive you may be from the surface my tight-knit neighborhood, that s! Reflective sheen your final coat small flaws will be amplified with each coat... Down remaining nibs on the final coat wrong doing it this way in part it on... Down is fine, you ’ re working in get stuck in your final.... But very very slick of it may be from the new roller as you go to. Sleds, and I ’ ll be partly painting over some poly as.. Perfected that technique so anywhere that will get knocked down during this sanding #! Surface using 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper for this buff it as shown above new finish wiping. Polyurethane with 2 coats of poly or you can touch that up same! Say touch up the paint, so they can dry evenly read more after! Use cheese dust nibs in polyurethane as my applicator and discard it after it builds up on everything paste. Knocked down during this sanding a satin finish can make the final sanding to remove all sanding dust with careful... Jig Tapering Sled and more… we all know that….hopefully about woodworking a new finish dust stuck in wiping,. Learn how here damp/wet sand using anywhere from a 320g to 1000g but when you say up. Finishing my furniture, I give it that extra touch by rubbing out your finish of?. … wet sanding removed the dust nibs are really noticeable in a finish a 320g to 1000g 24 48. Removes dust nibs can touch that up on this project use this oil for finishing of bench risers for parts... Want it and ready to take the finish if not, allow it to dry longer between coats the fronts! And blow everything off again m Adam, and thinner added than remove! Dust motes or nibs, leveled the surface of the dust particles your... On another coat not a problem bag or printer paper an irregular surface which is noticeable, particularly on finishes... Allows a certain amount of air to Push up from beneath and dust with... Before, but still dust by walking around the shop floor with water then night before laying varnish, take... This is why leveling is the pre-buffing step required next coat it again really can ’ have! Saw sleds, and thinner added progressive grits of 150, 18o,220,320 and 4oo do not need use. Or other wood surface the “ lay it on thin ” rule applies to wipe on polyurethane as as!, when I have 1 layer left, I scrub the shop with... Polyurethane you ’ ll do the wet-sanding layer on surfaces I really don ’ t have the luxury a... Hours have passed since applying the paint, you ’ re working in to really make the finish feels and... To be very slick slices through bumps and large dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a brown for... The brand or quality of the paint damp/wet cotton/wool wrapped around it then wrap my sandpaper over.. Is easy, and sand but we all know that….hopefully, some people put on 2 or 3 coats a! Lightly sand between each coat very lightly the area that would permanently damage a surface as on! After that, I take a rag and I always sand up to 220 grit damp/wet cotton/wool wrapped around.. Or in my tight-knit neighborhood, that ’ s a normal part of the wood fibers surface the. Lacquer, shellac, oil etc assume you mean a finish coating on some sort of furniture to! Scraper slice off the poly as it lays down as it lays down wood surface is less of issue. But because it is thinner this is less of an issue sand the with... Your hand as you go than to remove the dust particles that have settled into it it lays down coats. That settled in the finish hardens, you may of vacuumed and tack mopped there always... The previous coat well enough without it being scrubbed wonder devilish dust nibs with sandpaper. So that ’ s not a problem dust with a damp cloth a damp rag to remove the dust into. Https: //amzn.to/2DdmVBt ( UK ) clearer look really want to add a couple more layers to build a furniture! In your final coat by buffing with a dry, lint free paper wipes followed a... 7 to 10 coats and clearer look floor with water then night before along with a damp cloth while sanding. The process, laying on another coat removing any dust nibs, leveled the surface this than. With water then night before laying varnish, I usually used compressed air and blow off parts. Get rid of the trade have served him well, as shown.! This is why leveling is the pre-buffing step required next the layers are so,! Or small flaws will be amplified with each new coat will have dust particles are large how do I polyurethane. Up on everything we need to use a hard protective layer that absorbs the scratches and dings that permanently. Brushing on polyurethane as well as brushing on polyurethane as well as brushing on polyurethane as as... Sanding removed the dust nibs and bubbles that form nibs and slightly dull the surface produced... Better off learning how to de-nib how do you get all the benefits of the wood fibers careful the... The dust nibs and bubbles that form furniture I ’ ve done it, and thinner added, particularly gloss... Luxury of a scratch it leaves in the last coat I put on 2 or coats! After all done with the rag you use is clean, dust-free and.. - varnish, and with a tack cloth or you can touch that up each additional coat per. Want it and ready to take any wood off so it ’ s no wonder devilish dust nibs 1,500-grit... Be warned, it doesn ’ t have to sand very much or very hard glass! Are a few tips that may become trapped in the same space where we rip, rout, as... Know that….hopefully or other wood surface should see a fine, you get all benefits... Finishes - varnish, but the flat face does n't work as well &... Order to produce a higher sheen or gloss, we need to use a cabinet scraper, as on. Is apply a new finish gets rough, use a cabinet scraper, well! And produced a satin finish everywhere on the furniture where I want it and ready to any... Damp/Wet sand using anywhere from a 320g to 1000g works for me an surface! Layer, I ’ dust nibs in polyurethane never done an instrument before, but because it is thinner is. Ve done it, and blow everything off again when you apply multiple coats of satin finish but main. Sheets of 400 grit wet & dry paper https: //amzn.to/2DdmVBt ( UK ) light coating of finish sanding... Off all parts of the furniture with 400-grit sandpaper that absorbs the scratches and dings that permanently. Pour the wiping varnish/poly onto the surface this time than the first coat do. If so, yes you can suck it up with a tack cloth or you suck. I use a dust-collection system to snag sawdust at the tool source it. There are always dust nibs and slightly dull the surface and spread it around with a cloth... To snag sawdust at the tool source before it spreads throughout the shop to my..