To determine how much backing fabric you need, keep in mind that all sides of a quilt back should be at least 4″ longer than your quilt top. 80/20 cotton/poly is lightweight and will allow some shrinkage when washed. I quilted it with a medium to large meander so the quilting is not the reason for the stiffness. How much do you want to see the quilting design? Stitch. If I get a quilt in and see the backing is not big enough I can add muslin to the edges so that I can load it into the machine, I will charge extra for that obviously and I will not guarantee that none of the muslin shows on the edges of the quilt after trimming. This is a great option for quilts and comforters. Kind of confusing, right? That depends on a couple of important questions. There are several different types of batting available on the market today and they offer a variety of finished looks so you should do your research before you decide. 2. Next the batting goes down with no wrinkles. No matter what, your backing MUST BE 4-6″ larger than your quilt top, on ALL sides. This does’t cost you anything extra, but it does help me greatly. If the quilt is 24″ by 30″ then you could use a 8.5″ square-up ruler, and your longer ruler could be 10-15″. The reason I tried it was that I wanted the quilt to be much warmer than a single layer of warm and natural would have been. By visiting our site, you agree to our privacy policy regarding cookies, tracking statistics, etc. I do my best to enhance your quilt but the real magic begins at home with you the sewer. Seams should be pressed open and lie flat. Make sure your batting is larger than the quilt top. High loft means ¾” - 1” thick and will be great for thicker comforters and blankets—anything you want to make warmer with the extra thickness of the batting. A descriptive term for the thickness, height and resilience of quilt batting. Painter’s tape Flatter smoothing spray or some type of starch. We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. Do the same for the border fabric. If you start out with a backing that is the same size or just a little bit bigger than the top you don’t leave room to attach it and still quilt the whole quilt. At this point you could baste the layers together, but I prefer pinning. Make sure your backing and batting are larger than your quilt top. If the package states the quilting distance is 10 inches, then that batting is pretty stable. Especially if you are loading it lengthwise. Should I press my quilt top and back prior to having it quilted? Butt edges up to each (don't overlap) and baste together with a whipstitch by hand or use a large zigzag on your machine. By understanding why it’s required for the longarm quilter will give a better quilting experience. You'll need enough pins to put one every 4-5 inches all over the quilt. I would not choose to do it this way again because of the stiffness. On the sides we have to attach it to clamps to keep the backing straight so we don’t end up with puckers. ! The batting also needs to be larger than the top but not larger than the backing. The other horizontal bar is a belly bar and it just helps keep a good tension on the backing. That is because your quilter will use that fabric to attach the quilt to the bars and side clamps of their frame. The batting needed is 51″ (45″ + 6″) x 72″ (66″ + 6″). At the same time, if you're adding a lot of stitches to the quilt top, the quilt will shrink up a bit, too. For example, the lap-size top is 45″ x 66″. Wool is warm and good in cooler climates. Yes, this is not a problem for me. Size: you want your batting to be slightly larger than your quilt top (front) and slightly smaller than your quilt back. One of the big things that people always hear from the longarm quilter – I must have the backing 3 to 4 inches bigger than the quilt top on all 4 sides. 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